Author Topic: Swiss powder?  (Read 14580 times)

Offline Larry Pletcher

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #25 on: February 27, 2013, 02:46:16 AM »
I remember Bill Knight mentioning that fouling left in the barrel depended on humidity.  I don't remember details, but  think it was that below a certain humidity level fouling in the barrel increased.  Above that level it decreased.  Can anybody clarify this? Does anyone chart humidity when they shoot?

Regarding types of shooting and their powder preferences,  slug gun shooters, like Don Warner and Branch Meanley dislike Swiss.  These guys like and win with Goex.  Long range bullet shooters, Oak Ridge for instance, like Swiss.  Both of these groups shoot similar bullets and similar velocities.

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Offline Habu

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #26 on: February 27, 2013, 03:16:40 AM »
Interesting--thanks Dan.  The fouling problems I've seen were with 1.5F and 2F, with charges beginning around 100 grains, in a .54.  Many of the reports of excellent results in round ball rifles seem to be coming from shooters of relatively smaller calibers or lighter loads; I'm not sure how much of this is applicable when shooting heavy charges (relative to the weight of the ball) in rifles >.50 caliber or so. 

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2013, 04:54:01 AM »
I remember Bill Knight mentioning that fouling left in the barrel depended on humidity.  I don't remember details, but  think it was that below a certain humidity level fouling in the barrel increased.  Above that level it decreased.  Can anybody clarify this? Does anyone chart humidity when they shoot?

Regarding types of shooting and their powder preferences,  slug gun shooters, like Don Warner and Branch Meanley dislike Swiss.  These guys like and win with Goex.  Long range bullet shooters, Oak Ridge for instance, like Swiss.  Both of these groups shoot similar bullets and similar velocities.

Regards,
Pletch

I know that at about 30% RH the fouling goes from non-corrosive to corrosive.
The moist fowling thing mentioned by the old timers is the result of the charcoal being burned to leave the proper level of creosote. The creosote when burned produces h20 with makes the fouling softer  and moister.
But this is Bill Knight territory really.
Swiss requires a change in things from Goex and if people can make Goex work they don't need Swiss.  I guess. Generally speaking Swiss may require load development to make it work as well as proven load of Goex.
But Swiss more consistent and once a load is found one need not do load development with every new lot of powder. Important if  a lot of shooting is done. With MLs this is less important than in BPCR where the volume of ammo is greater. You need about 100 rounds to shoot a 40 shot or 60 shot silhouette match to be sure there is enough with sighters etc.
I had friends who were shooting thousands of shots a year in competition and load work. If you get a new lot of powder and it will not perform with the old loading data then the round of primer testing and other things begins anew which used more powder so if you get a good lot you have to buy all you can.
Swiss is more consistent lot to lot since they are more careful in making it.
Dan
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William Worth

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #28 on: February 27, 2013, 03:42:07 PM »
My observation is that at low humidity the fouling is more adherent in the bore.  At higher humidity, it is less adherent (sticky and crusty).

Pretty simple really.

Amazing how easy it is to wipe it away from the places you can reach with a damp rag and how persistent it can be in those places that are hard to reach, such as the corners of the rifling lands.

Offline gumboman

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #29 on: March 02, 2013, 03:07:07 PM »
I received shipment on some Swiss Powder yesterday. Bought some 2F and 3F. Have not used any yet but the difference I have noticed immediately is that the Swiss 2F granule size is smaller that Goex 2F and is about the same size as the Goex 3F. The Swiss 3F is smaller than the Goex 3F but not quite as small as Goex 4F.

It could be that the reason Swiss is reported to be hotter/better than Goex is due to it's smaller granule size and not necessarily because of a better formulation. Just my first observation. Now that I see this difference I wish I would have purchased some 1F or 1.5F for my 62 caliber.

Offline hanshi

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #30 on: March 02, 2013, 07:55:51 PM »
Considering the way Swiss is milled, it is probably denser than, say, Goex.  While Swiss is deemed "hotter" than Goex, weight for weight the difference is possibly less marked.  I intend getting some Swiss for my own testing when possible.  The extra cost might be justified with squirrel loads and c&b revolvers.  For most of us non-competitors non premium powders are the best bet.  With my loading/shooting practices bore fouling is not an issue, anyway.  I can shoot dozens of rounds with no need to wipe the bore.
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Offline gumboman

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #31 on: March 11, 2013, 05:28:14 AM »
Tried some Swiss 3F this weekend in my Forsyth rifled barrel. It's a 62 caliber round ball shooter. I cannot see any difference in the level of fouling compared to Goex. In fact the fouling seems a little harder than Goex to me. Barrel gets just as dirty as with Goex maybe more.  It does seem a little hotter however as I started with lighter loads than my Goex loads and elevations are the same.

I don't understand how shooters that claim multiple rounds between cleaning do it. My second round is very hard to get down and a third round would have to be hammered down. Using Wonder wads with wonder lube. I have to clean between rounds just to keep loading and shooting from becoming a real chore and a danger to my barrel.

But I am using a .600 ball and a .020 patch just to get mediocre accuracy from my Forsyth rifled barrel. The tight ball and patch combination is likely the cause of difficult loading. Cannot get acceptable accuracy at 100 yards with anything less tight. I built my gun for whitetail hunting. So far the accuracy level is such that I won't shoot anything past 50 yards. I was hoping the Swiss powder would make a difference. No go.

To anyone considering Forsyth rifling, my suggestion is to stick with faster twists and reputable barrel makers.

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #32 on: March 11, 2013, 05:53:51 AM »
My own experience with Swiss powder was similar. The fouling was more like a crust that
was hard. This was in an underhammer 451 long range rifle I cobbled together for a friend
a few years ago.

Bob Roller

Offline smylee grouch

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #33 on: March 11, 2013, 05:55:32 AM »
I dont shoot as much as some guys ( I go through about 10-12 lbs. a year) but the swiss is for sure more consistant for me.  One rifle, same load, swiss 8 feet per sec. extreem spread-Goex 52 feet per sec. extreem spread. Groups prove it if you dont have a cronografe. Like its already been said, the chunk gun shooters prefer it and consistencey is the name of the game there. The so called new variety of GOEX may be better, time will tell.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #34 on: March 11, 2013, 06:51:17 AM »
Tried some Swiss 3F this weekend in my Forsyth rifled barrel. It's a 62 caliber round ball shooter. I cannot see any difference in the level of fouling compared to Goex. In fact the fouling seems a little harder than Goex to me. Barrel gets just as dirty as with Goex maybe more.  It does seem a little hotter however as I started with lighter loads than my Goex loads and elevations are the same.

I don't understand how shooters that claim multiple rounds between cleaning do it. My second round is very hard to get down and a third round would have to be hammered down. Using Wonder wads with wonder lube. I have to clean between rounds just to keep loading and shooting from becoming a real chore and a danger to my barrel.

But I am using a .600 ball and a .020 patch just to get mediocre accuracy from my Forsyth rifled barrel. The tight ball and patch combination is likely the cause of difficult loading. Cannot get acceptable accuracy at 100 yards with anything less tight. I built my gun for whitetail hunting. So far the accuracy level is such that I won't shoot anything past 50 yards. I was hoping the Swiss powder would make a difference. No go.

To anyone considering Forsyth rifling, my suggestion is to stick with faster twists and reputable barrel makers.

Many put too slow a twist in "Forsythe rifling". Forsythe's rifle, a 69, was a 96 and he stated that 120 would work. The narrow lands load easier and will allow the use of harder lead. Which Forsythe used.
Nor does the slower twist in of itself produce more velocity. I see no reason for twists slower than 66-80 in anything smaller than 10-12 bore. People also shoot far more powder than Forsythe did, from reports, he used 5 drams in a 69 (14 bore with 15 bore ball). This is 137.5 gr. But I read of people shooting 180-200 from a 20 bore (62). At this charge level I am sure a 62 will have fouling problems with Swiss, especially FFF. Forsythe used "Halls #2" powder which based on the way C&H graded their powder was probably about like FF Swiss. But this is still supposition since I don't KNOW what Halls #2 really was. Might have been FFF.

Try FF. I shoot 140 gr  FF  Swiss out of my 30" barreled 16 bore (.662 ball so its really a 15 bore I suppose) with an 80" twist and narrow lands and it will not even show fouling at the muzzle the first shot or two. I have never had to wipe this rifle between shots and can shoot it till I get tired of the recoil with Neatsfoot oil or Sperm Whale Oil lube.
FFF Swiss is pretty fast stuff. Since its fast it burns hot. If the temperature get to a certain point (1600 IIRC) there will be a change in the character of the fouling, it will turn hard and white. 110 FFF in a 58 will cause this but 100 shoots clean. Mad Monk and I were just discussing this but I forgot the fine details ::). BAsically if you use Swiss and get hard white fouling then back the charge back or go to a coarser powder.
I shoot 90 fff from my 54 and have shot 90 from my 50 with no issues. The 38"  54 gives 1900 with 90 fff. This load fouls less than Goex FFF at 100 grains and is faster.
Other than my 40 cal trying Picket Bullets I have not had experience with bullets in MLs. I was using 80 gr of FF in the 40 last time but I wipe every shot so fouling is not a concern. But I really need a platinum nipple at this level. Its more accurate than 50 or 70 gr.
In a 58 I would not shoot more than 100 FFF and would likely try FF to keep the temp down. I would not shoot FFF on a 62 based on the 16 bore rifle I have. The slower powder will loose more temp to the bore as it burns slower and exposes more bore surface before being completely consumed. This helps keep the burn temp below the critical temp. The larger balls are more efficient. 140 gr of FF gives 1600. 140 is less than 33% of ball weight.

We also have to remember that its entirely possible that the barrels Forsythe was shooting were 12 grooves or more and thus he could talk of very sharp lands. I am sure my 16 bore with 8 grooves has much wider lands than Forsythe's barrels did.

Dan
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estreet

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Re: Swiss powder?
« Reply #35 on: April 14, 2013, 04:04:19 AM »
Few things to note for this thread that I have not seen in the earlier pages.

*) Swiss powder runs 10% more efficient than Goex, this means if you are using 50 grains of goex and you try Swiss you can cut 10% from that to get an equal load.

*) The charcoal used is Alder Buckthorn (Rhamnus frangula) wood imported from Slovenia, it is processed in house with a slow cook and a lower temp (kind of like a slow cooker), Goex contract the charcoal production out of state and uses a different type of wood, some references list a blend of wood used.

*) creosote levels in Swiss is much higher than other brands.  This is listed as 'moist burning'.  This makes the powder less dependent on the humidity.

Quote
During the charring of the wood, lignin in the wood is converted to various phenolic structured hydrocarbons. One of these being creosote. The creosote produced during the destructive distillation of wood is different from that produced by the destructive distillation of coal or by the "cracking' of petroleum crude oils.

When the Swiss limit there wood charring temperature to 300 to 320 degrees Centigrade they insure that the creosote produced during the destructive distillation process is retained within the charcoal. Allowing the charring temperature to rise above 320 degrees Centigrade will cause the creosote to flash off and leave the cylinder in the cylinder exhaust gases. By 350 degrees Centigrade, all of the creosote will have been flashed off and lost through the cylinder stack vent.

The Swiss charcoal will show about 8% by weight of creosote while other brands will show none to only a slight trace.

*) bore fouling is reduced in Swiss powder, assuming you do the reduction in grain
Quote
Bore fouling properties.
The Swiss sporting type black powder is noted for being a “moist-burning” powder. At present, the only supplier of black powder that is in fact a true moist-burning powder.

In shooting with the “common” powders there is no water produced as a product of combustion. For any moistness in the bore fouling they are entirely dependent upon moisture in the air that enters into the barrel after the projectile and spent propelling gases leave the barrel. If the Relative Humidity is 30%, or less, the residue left by the common powders is for all intent non-hygroscopic. The powder combustion residue will be dry. As the Relative Humidity rises above 30% the powder residue will then exhibit hygroscopic behavior. At about 70 to 80% R.H. the residue will exhibit deliquescent behavior.With the moist-burning property of the Swiss powder the powder’s combustion residue will not be dependent upon atmospheric conditions for any moistness in the bore fouling.

In some rifles it may be found that when shooting with the Swiss powder the rifle will produce more consistent velocities and a higher degree of accuracy if the bore is not wiped between shots.

*) swiss powder also has a heavier refined polishing process,this yields a more consistent ignition.

This is Goex FFFg on the left, Swiss FFFg on the right.  Note the color difference, the edges and the sizes.
 
« Last Edit: April 14, 2013, 07:52:36 AM by estreet »