Carving Tool Set

[dmb25]

looking to get a new set of carving tools  to replace the cheep china ones im using now for doing gun work hears what im thinks do you guys have Any other sugestions  http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/05H02/pfeil-Swiss-made-Intermediate-Size-Carving-Tool-Set-(A)-6-piece.aspx

[Dennis Glazener]

Good chisels but I would buy them seperately and get the ones I use. In sets you will get some that you never use.
Dennis

[smallpatch]

Pfeil tools are excellent.  Most of mine are....... However, don't buy a set.  It's a waste of money for sure.  You'll probably only use one or two, and be looking for something else to do the job.

Figure out what you need, and buy one of a kind.  

I've bought several sets, and then sold them to buy what I really needed.

[PPatch]

The deal with those "Sets" is you generally get one to two useful tools and the rest only very occasionally or never used.  Good carving tools are expensive, yes, but they last forever and are a pleasure to use if sharpened correctly. I started off with a few small gouges, several sizes of straight chisels.

Thing is we all do relief carving differently according to what tools we grow to like so it is very difficult to recommend specific tools for another.  Check out these carving tutorials by Acer:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=12.0

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=29820.0

Note the tools used. I purchased most of my carving tools from this outfit, I bought single tools as I needed and could afford:

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/

They sell the Ashley lles brand of carving tools and they are high quality and come almost ready to use; a bit of stropping is all they require.

Some basic tools: 1/16th, 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 inch straight chisels. These don't have to be expensive, mine came from china and are (surprisingly) doing well and take a keen edge. You'll use that 1/4" chisel often. These are long shank chisels not the short ones at the Big Box store.

#3 Sweeps: 3mm, 5mm, 8mm (useful for inletting and background removal).

60 degree V tool. 1mm, 3mm.

That is a start, perhaps others will recommend more.

dave

[davebozell]

I agree with the recommendation of the 1/4" straight chisel and the 3 mm V tool.  I bought a 1 mm V tool, but found that the edge was very fragile.  I find I can do most of the things that I need to do with just those two chisels.  I have made a couple inletting chisels like Acer demonstrates in his tutorials.  Skip the sets.

[Joe S.]

what the others said,skip the set and by them separately. What ever you buy don't skimp on the quality. Been there and done that,I have cheap chisels that appear to have a good edge but don't cut.Other cheap ones that won't hold an edge for long.They end up going to the job site to be used in places where nails and who knows what could be hiding. I have a woodcraft store about an hour away,they have it all.You can spend plenty of money there if you want,good stuff.Even have a shop set up to learn folks how to do projects ect. reminded me of woodshop class back in highschool.

[helwood]

Dave, I agree with all that have said buy the best quality you can get.  Because there is nothing better than carving with sharp tools and nothing worse than poor quality tools.  And sets are not the way to go.  Here's what I told Gary Brumfield when he saw my set.  For Christmas,Birthdays... I tell all relatives when asked what I might like I say gift cards for Woodcraft so I can select my next Pfeil tool. And I would make my next selection based on wanting to replace an existing tool or wanting to make a better cut with something I grew into.  Hank   

[dogcatcher]

I would find out if you have a carving club or guild that is close enough that you can visit with for at least a few meetings.  You will find carvers very helpful, willing to help with questions and advice.  The main thing I found was sharpening is the KEY, if you can sharpen you can carve.  I thought I could sharpen until I attended a meeting and found out my chisels were sharp, but they could have been sharper.  It was like a flood lamp went on.

[brokenflint]

I think you might want to reconsider the intermediate size and go with the full size chisels, I found that the intermediate doesn't give me the coverage that the full size will, second everyone's advice on buying individual chisels.  

[Nate McKenzie]

Dave, I agree. No sets. I find I have much better control with the Pheil full size chisels and gouges. Just as important as the chisels is a good sharpening system. There is a woodcraft store near Harrisburg, PA. Also, don't just throw them in a drawer. Look for a roll or build a holder like you saw on my work bench. This protects the edges.

[dmb25]

thanks for all the advice makes a lot of sense 

[Acer Saccharum]

I like the full size tools, particularly the straights and the gouges for stock shaping, inletting, and carving. I drive them with a mallet for better control. Full length for the parting tools, too, and I drive them with the mallet. I find it much easier to tap the tool around a curve than to push it.

I have some palm tools, and I only use them for modeling the carving. I would probably not buy them if I were starting over, but go with the full length tools instead.

[Mark Elliott]

My favorite chisels are 19th century cast steel that I got for next to nothing on eBay or on one of my antique mall visits.   I also have lots of Pfeil because they were the easiest to get when i needed something.   As the others said,  experience has shown it is best to buy a tool when you need it.   Otherwise,  you end up with lots of stuff you really don't use.   The following are what I keep on my bench and use regularly:

Favorites *

    Bench: 1/8″, 1/4″*, 1/2″* , 3/4″, 1″, 1 1/4″*
    Morticing: 1/8″*, 3/32″  (antique tools - I have never see modern ones this size)
    Stamping: 3/32″*  (ground from music wire)
    European No.(sweep/width mm) Gouges: 1S/5*, 2/16, 3/16*, 7/6*, 8/3*, 8/4*, 9/2*, 9/5*, 9/7*, 12/1*, 12/3,  21/6*

The no 8s are ground with round noses for chip carving.
 
I only recently starting using the no 12 "V" parting tools having been told by all my teachers not to use them.  However,  I was never able to cut narrow incised lines to my satisfaction with a skew.   I can do it with the "V" parting tools.  However,  the "V" tools from Pfiel must be reground to a much narrower profile in order to cut lines that look like metal engraving.   

As to the no 2 to 9 sweep gouges,  you may find other sweeps and sizes more useful.   It is a personal thing.    You used to be able to try out chisels at WoodCraft,  I don't know if you still can or not.  I suspect it is a store by store thing. 

[Acer Saccharum]

The key to the parting tool is having one with a sharp inside V. Many tools have a rounded gullet at the bottom where the two sides meet. You'll never be able to sharpen the tool any finer than the radius at the bottom of the V, if I'm making sense.

I'll bet the skew is the way to go for ultra crisp incised carving, but I've not mastered this tool.

[Pete G.]

The key to the parting tool is having one with a sharp inside V. Many tools have a rounded gullet at the bottom where the two sides meet. You'll never be able to sharpen the tool any finer than the radius at the bottom of the V, if I'm making sense.

I'll bet the skew is the way to go for ultra crisp incised carving, but I've not mastered this tool.

I have one of those parting tools with the inside radius. I have yet to figure out what to use it for. OTOH I also have a 60 degree veiner that works beautifully for incising.

[c deperro]

  Jim Kibler sells a nice little book on carving. Its not that expensive and does have a list of the carving tools he recommends . Also if you go on flintriflesmith.com you can view the list of what Gary Brumfield use to recommend for his carving class. Either one will save you a boat load of money . At $35 to $40 a gouge you don't want to buy to many tools that you don't need.

[SuperCracker]

My favorite chisels are 19th century cast steel that I got for next to nothing on eBay or on one of my antique mall visits.   

Mine too. I keep an auto alert for Berg and Buck Brothers chisels and every morning I get an email with the new listings. Over about 6 weeks I've been able to put together an entire set of antique Swedish chisels that I feel are superior in every way to the expensive modern (2 Cherries) set I had. All for around $20 each.  If you're not in a hurry you might do the same thing with gouges and put together a nice set of high quality tools for about half of what you'd pay for new ones.

[Mark Elliott]

My favorite chisels are 19th century cast steel that I got for next to nothing on eBay or on one of my antique mall visits.   

Mine too. I keep an auto alert for Berg and Buck Brothers chisels and every morning I get an email with the new listings. Over about 6 weeks I've been able to put together an entire set of antique Swedish chisels that I feel are superior in every way to the expensive modern (2 Cherries) set I had. All for around $20 each.  If you're not in a hurry you might do the same thing with gouges and put together a nice set of high quality tools for about half of what you'd pay for new ones.

My used chisels were more like $8 each. 

[SuperCracker]

My favorite chisels are 19th century cast steel that I got for next to nothing on eBay or on one of my antique mall visits.   

Mine too. I keep an auto alert for Berg and Buck Brothers chisels and every morning I get an email with the new listings. Over about 6 weeks I've been able to put together an entire set of antique Swedish chisels that I feel are superior in every way to the expensive modern (2 Cherries) set I had. All for around $20 each.  If you're not in a hurry you might do the same thing with gouges and put together a nice set of high quality tools for about half of what you'd pay for new ones.

My used chisels were more like $8 each. 

I was being picky. lol    I decided on a particular maker/brand and a particular handle style, from a particular period and just kept at it til I put together a whole set.

I was also including shipping.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

These are a cheap addition to your Swiss tools:

http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/Micro-Tools/products/103/

[Mark Elliott]

This isn't entirely related, but I thought that I would note that most of my hand tools are usable antiques that are not necessarily collector grade.   You can get these inexpensively and refurbish them.   If you know how to refurbish planes and saws and properly shape and sharpen chisels, then you can get top quality, usable (not necessarily pretty), tools for very little money.  I bought a 100 year old medium grade (then) Disston hand saw for $5 at a Lexington,VA Antique mall that would cost over $100 today to purchase a new one of comparable quality.   You can't purchase new, today, tools of equivalent quality to the top grade tools made 100 years ago.   A refurbished 60-100 year old 90 series Disston hand saw will cost you the better part of $300 on eBay.   That has to tell you something.

[509thsfs]

I have a couple of the pfeil chisels. Love them. They are not cheap, but worth it. I will be picking up more over time as I need and money permits.  Luckily a Woodcraft store is right down the road.

[dmb25]

thanks every one gives me a lot to think about

[Tim Crosby]

Take a look at this, it is a list of tools that Gary suggested for his carving classes.

  http://www.flintriflesmith.com/ToolsandTechniques/tools_carving_class.htm


 Tim C.

[Keithbatt]

Would you recommend the 1.5, 2, or 3 mm size for all around usefulness?


Keith

These are a cheap addition to your Swiss tools:

http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/Micro-Tools/products/103/