Building an Alexander Henry Target Rifle from a Rod England Kit

[Curtis]

Back at it for a few days!

I drilled and screwed down the trigger guard extension, then located the pistol grip cap on the stock and taped it in place.  Next I tapped a drill bit with a hammer to locate the hole, then started the hole with a center drill.  A temp screw was then used to secure the grip cap.











After studying some photos of original Alexander Henry rifles found online and obtained from other sources, it became apparent that the drip bar, patent breech and standing breech should all be tapered to match the angle of the lock plate to the wrist.  You can see in this photo what they look like before filing them to the correct angle.



I scribed a line on the parts to be filed along the surface of the lock plate for reference, then clamped a scrap of a hacksaw blade to the assembly to use as a reference. The drip bar and the snail breech will be a bit proud of the lock plate, and the standing breech will be the same height.



The drip bar and snail breech were finished by filing a small angle where they meet the lock plate, and the standing breech was left flat and level with the lock plate.



Curtis

[Curtis]

When I was fitting the trigger blade to the sear, I got a bit over zealous in my filing and it affected the appearance of the trigger in the guard.  A mentor sent me some photos of how the trigger shoe should "flow" with the curve of the guard, to me it should appear to continue the "scroll" shape.  I could have ordered a new trigger and started over, but I was encouraged to make a new trigger myself.

I started by making some reference marks on a scrap of 1/4" steel plate, drilled some holes where there will be a radius, and sawed out the rough shape. I opted to cut and file the trigger shoe instead of forging it like I would on an American rifle.





Thinning the blade area with a saw:



Trimming around the shoe:



I filed the blade flat and true, then did some trimming, drilled the pivot hole and test fit.





Next I went to work on filing the shoe:







Did a final check for appearance, made some adjustments



Once satisfied I drilled the hole for the return spring and installed it, and fit the blade to the sear a bit more carefully this time.



I will likely make some adjustments with the little tab and refine the shoe a bit more, but I think it is good enough for now.

Thanks for looking, Curtis

[Justin Urbantas]

Looking great. I'm excited to hear how it shoots when you're finished

[rich pierce]

Great work and tutorial. Thanks!

[hortonstn]

Very nice Curtis

[westbj2]

Curtis,
Guard and trigger flow nicely.  Good job and big improvement! Final tweaking should include a little work on the edges of the guard.  Looks like the blunt edges now are in the range of .010 or .015".  I would "sharpen" them a bit so that they are not knife edged but have just the slightest soft edges.....Maybe .005" or a little less.
Also, the lock plate and drip bar/barrel relationship look fine.
Jim

[Daryl]

Wonderful work, Curtis and so well photographed. Thanks! I have all of the pictures in a file named: "Curtis' Alexander Henry Build"

[Curtis]

Thanks for the positive input fellas! 

Jim, the trigger guard has just been filed enough to remove the casting scale and will need a lot of work for the final shaping, your provided info will be very useful in that process!  I'll post some pics when I get it closer to finished and would appreciate you looking them over and give more critique on what might need more work.  Your advice has been most helpful to this project!


Curtis

[Curtis]

For a change of pace I decided to cut the dovetail for the front sight.  I painted the area with some Dykem and scratched some reference lines, then went to work with the hacksaw and file.













I removed the sight assembly after getting it fitted to prevent damaging it.

Curtis

[Bob Roller]

For those among us who are not familiar with these long range rifles,that is a
serious front sight and has windage and a spirit level to keep the rifle level at
1000 to 1200 yards.This type of rifle was the ultimate muzzle loader and were
in use long after the development of long range breech loaders. I like them better
than the breech loaders for target shooting because the load can be changed on
the range regarding powder charges and bullets,paper patched or grease grooved.
No brass to clean either.
Bob Roller

[T*O*F]

Kinda close to the front, ain't it?  No room for the bullet starter which you will acquire later.    Also, did you measure the distance from your rear to front sight location to be 36" so all your sight corrections will be minute of angle to match the sight graduations on your tang sight?

Those front adjustable sights are a PITA.  One of my rifles has one and it moves opposite the rear windage adjustment.  It's hard to remember which way you're moving the bullet strike.  May want to engrave/stamp an L or R on the appropriate side so you can remember.

Lastly, as far as the bubble is concerned, I can't even see mine, let alone center it for each shot.

[snapper]

Curtis

TOF is spot on.   I use a muzzle protector for my rifles.   The Rigby has the original one that is serial numbered with the rifle.   My  Alex Henry replicas have one that was modeled after a Rigby.   IMO you need to be anal about protecting the muzzle when you are shooting long range.

Also agree with him on the 36" for MOA adjustments.  Assuming that your sights are set up for MOA.

The front sight with windage is a PIA.   However, if you are wanting it to look as appropriate as possible, that is what you will use.

I think the front windage cost me points in matches.   I can not make as fine of adjustments with the front as I can with the windage on the rear.  Also when you are in the prone position and ready to shoot, forget about getting back up to look at the darn thing and make an adjustment.   Windage on the rear allows you to make changes without getting up.

For my replicas I do not have windage on the front, but on the Rigby I do.

I have taped inside my shooting box, on the lid a picture of my front sights and an arrow for which way to turn the screw to get the bullet to move either left or right.   Seems simplistic to remember, but I can and do make mistakes and I like to win.
Also important is that you hold the rifle the same way each time when you adjust the front sights, turn it 90 degrees, now you are cranking the sights the wrong way.

Regarding seeing the bubble level I aint that old yet.   I can still see them.

I dont need glasses to see distance, but need them for seeing up close.  Brent D. has me playing with a couple of pairs of safety glasses that have magnification over the whole lenses.   Currently playing with .5 and .75.    They both allow me to see the sights better and still see the distant target.   Not sure about 1,000 yards yet.    I would still put the stick on bifocals on the bottom of the lenses for up close reading of the sights etc.

Fleener

[Curtis]

Kinda close to the front, ain't it?  No room for the bullet starter which you will acquire later.    Also, did you measure the distance from your rear to front sight location to be 36" so all your sight corrections will be minute of angle to match the sight graduations on your tang sight?

Those front adjustable sights are a PITA.  One of my rifles has one and it moves opposite the rear windage adjustment.  It's hard to remember which way you're moving the bullet strike.  May want to engrave/stamp an L or R on the appropriate side so you can remember.

Lastly, as far as the bubble is concerned, I can't even see mine, let alone center it for each shot.

Curtis

TOF is spot on.   I use a muzzle protector for my rifles.   The Rigby has the original one that is serial numbered with the rifle.   My  Alex Henry replicas have one that was modeled after a Rigby.   IMO you need to be anal about protecting the muzzle when you are shooting long range.

Also agree with him on the 36" for MOA adjustments.  Assuming that your sights are set up for MOA....


Fleener

TOF and Snapper, where are you guys when I am alone in the shop and get a wild hair to do things like put sights on a gun?  I set the front sight location based on the drawing, didn't think about the muzzle protector or even have a clue about 36" spacing affecting MOA adjustments.  Too many questions that I don't even know to ask on this style of gun.  I just went out to the shop and put a tape measure to it, looks like approx 37.5 inches between the sights.  I plan on using a muzzle protector but didn't think about allowing enough space for it.  Moving the front sight and plugging the dovetail and make it look good will be a PITA but I will have to consider it.

I chose the sights I have because they emulate the original AH sights, and I believe the adjustments are MOA.  I am not used to an adjustable front sight yet so I will have to learn whatever system I use on the rifle.  The rear sight has no provision for windage.  Guess I have some thinking to do.... 

Curtis

[snapper]

We should of thought about saying something, but did not think about it until too late.   

Sorry.


Fleener

[Bob Roller]

A bore protector can still be fitted and the base of the sight will be a great guide
for it if care in fitting is taken and I think it will be**.I had no bore/muzzle protector
for my original Henry/Whitworth and had no problems at all in the 11 years I owned
and shot it-----a lot.The Henry barrel on my rifle had about 8" of feelable choke when
being loaded and when it went off,it sounded like a high velocity modern gun.
Bill Large always liked to hear it when I was using his range and the first time he heard
it he asked if I had my Model 95 with me. I told him it was my Whitworth.

Bob Roller
**Be sure a pin is installed that can block the view thru the front sight if you decide to make
this adaptation.

[T*O*F]

Sights are always the last thing to be fitted.  I always cut off the sight casting and welded up the hole.  Never used the original.  High quality, aftermarket sights are mounted at different locations on the tang depending on the sight base required.  Once installed, then the front sight distance is measured for its location.

You remember my sight dovetail debacle where a non-firearms machinist started cutting the dovetail on the side of the barrel before I caught it.  I was able to tap fit a piece of keystock into the slot.  Then I tinned it and tapped it in, and heated it until the solder flowed.  After clean-up, it's not noticeable.

Lastly, the sight blocking pin is not required since the bullet starter is one piece, not two like a false muzzle.

[Bob Roller]

I have never seen a 2 piece false muzzle and the one piece ones HAVE or did have a blinder
pin to prevent a 10 X of very large size.I  once prevented a man from blowing the guide starter
off of his Don Brown Henry copy in a match in Kentucky. He was using it against BPCR guns and
was really loading too fast and the guide starter had no blinder. Not a good idea but he was trying
and got a few hits for his efforts.

Bob Roller

[Taylorz1]

I dont think its the end of the world Curtis re the front sight location. You could make a small lug at 6oc and make a twist on protector like on Gibbs longrange guns. They dont take up much room.

[Daryl]

I dont need glasses to see distance, but need them for seeing up close.  Brent D. has me playing with a couple of pairs of safety glasses that have magnification over the whole lenses.   Currently playing with .5 and .75.    They both allow me to see the sights better and still see the distant target.   Not sure about 1,000 yards yet.    I would still put the stick on bifocals on the bottom of the lenses for up close reading of the sights etc.
Fleener

I also have reader/computer glasses, but in .25, .50 and .75 diopter. The .50's are pretty good, but the .75's are best for shooting to 100 meters. I doubt very much that I could see the buffalo at 1,000 metres with them on.  It is not easy to see with my normal glasses, that give me 20/15 eyesight, as it is only chest deep at 4' and 8' long.

[T*O*F]

You are confused about what we are talking about.  This protects the muzzle while the bullet is inserted in it and rammed home.  It is not indexed in any manner.  There is no extra time during the relay to fool around lining up a post over your front sight.  This is a picture of Snapper's original Rigby one.

[Curtis]

I'm thinking I may shoot the rifle in the white before moving the front sight.  I will discuss your dovetail plugging method with you at more length Dave.  I remember you talking about the bad front sight cut, you hadn't plugged it yet at the time.  Shooting in the white will give me options to change the entire sight arrangement.  Have you blued that soldered plug int the barrel yet?  I think I could peen a plug without it showing sans soldering....

Curtis

[T*O*F]

Filling your dovetail will be more complex than mine.  The machinist had cut a 1/4" slot before running the dovetail cutter thru and that's when I caught his error.  This simplified filling as I just got a piece of keystock and filed it for a force fit.  The solder wasn't much more than the thickness of the tinning.  Haven't done any barrel finish to it yet.

[Bob Roller]

You are confused about what we are talking about.  This protects the muzzle while the bullet is inserted in it and rammed home.  It is not indexed in any manner.  There is no extra time during the relay to fool around lining up a post over your front sight.  This is a picture of Snapper's original Rigby one.

I wonder how many of these muzzle protectors were blown down range back in the "day"?
On the long range rifle I built with a GM barrel I used one that could be located the same
way every time by using a pin on the barrel and I did put a post on it to block the front sight.
I also made my own rear sight and used the "ears" that were on the breech that I got from
Don Brown. I still have one of those I used for a gauge when I make that style of lock.
I also used one of Don's precarved stalking rifle stocks so I could take advantage of the good
looking trigger guard used with it. Rod England told me he offered that stock as well as the
pistol grip style and I am temped to get one and his breeched barrels and  cobble up   
one of these rifles.Maybe we should all drink a toast to old Sir Joseph Whitworth for his bringing
such rifles
in to use. They also made wandering around out in the open a dangerous idea during
a war like our own Uncivil War in the 19th century.

Bob Roller

[Curtis]

I wonder how many of these muzzle protectors were blown down range back in the "day"? ....

Bob Roller

I couldn't help but notice Snapper tied a string around the narrow waist on his bore protector and the other end of the string tied to his shooting box on the bench.  Made it difficult to walk away and forget to remove the bore protector from the barrel.   

Curtis

[Curtis]

The precarved stock is made a bit oversized for obvious reasons, and a fair amount of wood needs removed.  There are at least a couple of ways to approach this task, one is to start removing wood until it looks and scales correct.  Another, which I used here is to set the known dimensions in profile and width like I would do on a gun built from a slab, then geometrically remove wood approaching the final dimension.  Here I have set the width of the wrist:





Then I brought the side panel opposite of the lock down to near final level and proper angle.  A horse rasp, though rough, will cut fairly smooth if you rasp with the grain:





Next I bring the comb down to near the proper level an check it with a straight edge.  If you mark on the straight edge with a Sharpie it will transfer marks to the high spots:







The buttstock was brought down to the dimensions of the butt plate:









I used a modified caliper to help with setting the wrist dimensions and curve:



Then continued to remove some wood and started to define the lock panels.  I used some clear film to trace the lock side and transfer dimensions to the off side:









It will probably be a while before I get back in the shop, will post more then!

Curtis