Rit Dye

[rmnc3r]

Care to share your experience for modifying Rit Liquid Dye for use on Maple?  Straight Dye doesn't penetrate well. 

Which will help provide better penetration? - diluting with Isopropyl (70% or 91%?), or Denatured Alcohol?

I like Feibings Leather Dye,

[Craig Wilcox]

I think the isopropyl would do fine, OR 90-95% denatured alcohol - ethanol.  Both are fairly polar, and would probably carry the Ritt dyes well. I've not tried it, but believe it would work fine.  The lower percentage alcohols might not penetrate the maple enough.

[smallpatch]

Just one question...... why would you want to?
There are soooooo many readily available stains, both traditional and modern, with proven results, that I just don’t understand the purpose.
Don’t want to seem mean, I just don’t get it.

[rmnc3r]

I have bottles of several different colors on hand and I don't mind experimenting. However....
While a smart man learns from learns from his mistakes,
A wise man learns from the mistakes of others.

[smallpatch]

Please don’t be discouraged by my comment, we can all use some fresh ideas.  But remember, you’ve put dozens upon dozens of hours in putting a gun together, and to wreck all your efforts with an experimental stain could be devastating.
Please try your concoction on samples of the same wood before going all the way.
Aqua fortis, ferric nitrate are traditional, LMF stains are fantastic.  Both are readily available, and tried and true.

[rmnc3r]

No worries; Experimenting with something different, like a stain, is done on scraps.
But, I'd like to see what others have done - there is nothing new under the sun, after all.

[Fly Navy]

Where could someone get some scrap pieces of curly maple rifle stock to test different types of finish on?  I went to a couple of local wood stores and couldn't find any good curly sugar or red maple.

[Dennis Glazener]

Seems to me that I remember Ken Guy using orange (I believe it was) for a base color for a TN rifle. Can't remember the rest but he used other stain overtop of the orange it turned out great. Will see if I can find the thread.
Dennis

[AsMs]

Fly Navy,

On a recent camping trip with the family we bought a couple of bags of fire wood kindling. To my surprise it was full of curly maple. I saved a few for test strips and to make loading blocks with.

AsMs

[Metalshaper]

try mixing with a bit of say vinegar and then alcohol,,  some dyes like to have a lower pH  to make em stick.


Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[Bob McBride]

Where could someone get some scrap pieces of curly maple rifle stock to test different types of finish on?  I went to a couple of local wood stores and couldn't find any good curly sugar or red maple.

 A few years ago bought some 1/4” very curly Maple board on eBay for the same purpose. 2’x6” or so. It was pretty reasonable if I remember right.

[Ky-Flinter]

I realize it's not always possible, but it is best to test stains on cut-offs from the actual stock being worked on.  The same type of wood, but from different trees, regions, etc. will react differently to the same stain.  In a pinch, when I didn't have scraps from the stock, I have tested stains in the barrel channel.

-Ron

[rmnc3r]

Ah, scraps are a benefit of working from a blank plank. 


I searched 'Rit' here, but din't come up with much. I guess I'll search 'orange' now:

Seems to me that I remember Ken Guy using orange (I believe it was) for a base color for a TN rifle. Can't remember the rest but he used other stain overtop of the orange it turned out great. Will see if I can find the thread.
Dennis

[Bob McBride]

I realize it's not always possible, but it is best to test stains on cut-offs from the actual stock being worked on.  The same type of wood, but from different trees, regions, etc. will react differently to the same stain.  In a pinch, when I didn't have scraps from the stock, I have tested stains in the barrel channel.

-Ron

Very true. ‘Best practices’ strikes again.

[JTR]

I think a bigger question might be how will the Rit Dye stain hold up over time, sunlight, wear and tear.

I'm remembering one from years ago that turned to wood green over time. Not good; took a total refinish as I remember...

[smallpatch]

You’ve gotta use the same wood as the stock you’re finishing.  Each piece is different.
I use orange, or yellow sometimes to get that nice amber color.  LMF stains, not Rit.
Chromium trioxide, or magic maple stain is the one that turns green when exposed to UV rays.

[WadePatton]

I think Keith Lisle may have used orange dyes.  I tried all sorts of leather dyes/mixes (the orange as well) and never got anything I liked for

Smallpatch nailed it above.

[Daryl]

I realize it's not always possible, but it is best to test stains on cut-offs from the actual stock being worked on.  The same type of wood, but from different trees, regions, etc. will react differently to the same stain.  In a pinch, when I didn't have scraps from the stock, I have tested stains in the barrel channel.

-Ron

Further to what Ron says, these two Hawken rifles have exactly the same stain, applied exactly the same way.
It pays to test on the same plank, for sure.

[Dennis Glazener]

Seems to me that I remember Ken Guy using orange (I believe it was) for a base color for a TN rifle. Can't remember the rest but he used other stain overtop of the orange it turned out great. Will see if I can find the thread.
Dennis

OK I just found the thread and was also able to recover the photobucket photos so you can view the rifle he used it on.
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=945.msg9405#msg9405

[David Rase]

Where could someone get some scrap pieces of curly maple rifle stock to test different types of finish on?  I went to a couple of local wood stores and couldn't find any good curly sugar or red maple.

Fly Navy,
I have buckets full of maple cutoffs from all the barrel inletting I do.  I can fill up a medium or large flatrate box and would gladly ship it to you for the price of the postage.
David

[Marcruger]

RIT dye does fade in sunlight over time. 

One place I have seen yellow RIT dye used is after a stock has been scraped/sanded in prep for finish.  The yellow dye highlights the areas that need more attention.  I was told that it basically disappears to the eye after AF and finishing.  I am not a stockmaker, but the man I saw use it was a respected maker in a historic gunshop. 

God Bless,   Marc

[Tim Crosby]

 FWIW Old test piece, not RIT dye but Lemon Yellow stain water powder by Lockwood. Sanded back, stained with Mahogany rubbed back, a couple coats of Danish Oil rubbed back and waxed.

  Tim C.

[Dave B]

I had tried Fiebings leather dye on a longrifle and loved the initial color, but it faded significantly with UV exposure going from a redish brown to a yellow honey. Would not use it again. I have tended to use Aquafortis by Wackon bay or some made by friends of mine that own L&R Trading company out of Springfield OR. The had stuff called Mackenzie River Aquafortis it worked pretty well as I recall. Not sure they are still getting it made for them or no. I havent seen them in 4yrs or so. My rifle building being on pause for the last decade. I have done one off staining using Minwax stains with good results. I used John Bivins wet sanding with stain with a little finish to fill in the pores. It worked fairly well but one must brush out the carving  to keep it from building up.
On the whole I hate final finishing and will always find a reason to do something else just so I don't have to.

[fahnenschmied]

Don't use RIT.  Firstly because it is not very lightfast.  Secondly, because it is loaded with salt.  I stained an old Italian built Mississippi rifle with it years ago, and the salt in the stain festered and corroded at the brass and iron parts in the stock.  Maybe I should have done a better job rinsing it off.  My favorite stains are natural ones, boiled walnut hulls, else alcohol based dyes like Laurel Mountain.

[Hungry Horse]

Feibings leather dye isn’t any good on leather, much less wood, horn, or pretty much anything else. It’s sunlight resistance is almost non existent, and it has so little colorant it it that it leaves overlaps, and streaks in everything. If you get Lincoln’s leather dye it is loaded with colorant, is sunlight resistant, and is available direct from Lincoln on line.

  Hungry Horse