resoling a frizzen

[Sonoran Longrifle]

I want to use a suitable saw blade. Any suggestions of which one to get?

[rich pierce]

I want to use a suitable saw blade. Any suggestions of which one to get?

I use handsaw blades. Old fashioned carpenter’s tools. Easily found in junk shops or Facebook Marketplace or Craig’s List. If yiu strike out locally I can send you a piece.

[smart dog]

Hi

Rich is right.  My favorite steel for soling batteries is from old heavy duty meat band saws.  They are very tough because they have to saw through bone which is tougher than wood.

dave

[Mattox Forge]

What kind of solder do you use?

Mike

[Pukka Bundook]

Mike,
I had a good friend in England who was international musket champion a good few years, taking Gold, and he used Araldite epoxy on his 'Besses, and it didn't seem to shake loose.
He used old hand saw blades.

[smart dog]

What kind of solder do you use?

Mike

Mike,
I used low temp silver solder like Stay Bright or Brownells' Hi-Force 44.  They are low enough temperature that the heat does not effect the hardness of the sole very much.  I hold the battery by the toe in a vise so the face is horizontal and facing upward.  Then I tin it and lay the hardened sole on top.  Then I heat from below until the solder flows again and the sole settles into place. 

dave

[Leatherbark]

If I may interject a useful question.  Do you all grind the face of the frizzen to allow for the thickness of the sole plate so the dimensions are the same or does it matter?

Bob

[Longknife]

I usually grind the frizzen face juts to clean it up and check that the new sole will clear the fence, and grind till it will clear. Just remember, a lighter frizzen will snap open faster....LK

[rich pierce]

That soldering technique works great. I think the period technique was brazing, which I’ve done before by adding a mix of borax and brass filings between the sole and face and wiring in place. Once it flows, let it cool to hsrdening temp and quench in brine. The darn wire will braze on also. Cleanup required. I don’t have an acetylene torch. This is the 2 propane torches - brick cubby method.

[Mattox Forge]

Thanks. I have an original lock that needs a resol. Someone put the frizzen up to a flat grinder at some point. I filed out a new face from 1085 and hardened it. I  put some of the ground off parts on to the resol part to make the frizzen look whole again. I was a little worried about loosing the temper  but using the low heat solder sounds like a good idea.


Mike

[yulzari]

Mike,
I had a good friend in England who was international musket champion a good few years, taking Gold, and he used Araldite epoxy on his 'Besses, and it didn't seem to shake loose.
He used old hand saw blades.

Bill Curtis Richard?

[Martin S.]

Thanks. I have an original lock that needs a resol. Someone put the frizzen up to a flat grinder at some point. I filed out a new face from 1085 and hardened it. I  put some of the ground off parts on to the resol part to make the frizzen look whole again. I was a little worried about loosing the temper  but using the low heat solder sounds like a good idea.


Mike

I really like the older locks that have the sliding safety.  I have one, by Durs Egg.  Who made yours?

[Mattox Forge]

Mike,
I had a good friend in England who was international musket champion a good few years, taking Gold, and he used Araldite epoxy on his 'Besses, and it didn't seem to shake loose.
He used old hand saw blades.

Pukka,
That's what I wanted to do in the first place. I tried some high strength epoxy, but it sheared off after a couple of hits. Maybe I need to try again.

Mike

[Daryl]

araldite epoxy impressed me. Brown Bess cock hits hard.

https://www.go-araldite.com/en

[Mattox Forge]

araldite epoxy impressed me. Brown Bess cock hits hard.

https://www.go-araldite.com/en

Thanks, I give this stuff a try.


Mike

[Mattox Forge]

Thanks. I have an original lock that needs a resol. Someone put the frizzen up to a flat grinder at some point. I filed out a new face from 1085 and hardened it. I  put some of the ground off parts on to the resol part to make the frizzen look whole again. I was a little worried about loosing the temper  but using the low heat solder sounds like a good idea.


Mike

I really like the older locks that have the sliding safety.  I have one, by Durs Egg.  Who made yours?

Martin

I posted a reply in a new thread in the Gun Collecting forum so this thread  doesn't get off track.

Mike

[Daryl]

I see the go-araldite epoxy has a 14 hour cure time.
https://www.go-araldite.com/en/aralditer-ultra-strong-2x15ml
Makes me wonder if it is a strong as normal 2-ton epoxy, with the 24 hour cure time,
however if it worked on a Bess, should be fine for a rifle.

[recurve]

contact Brad at cabin creek muzzleloaders he restores many originals he may have advise

[Pukka Bundook]

Yulzari and Daryl, Mike,

Not Bill Curtis, this was Mark Hambeldon, a young man who tragically passed before his time.
Bill pretty well lived out his days, but not Mark.

Mark and I started the BMF International Musket shoot for percussion muskets.
So sad!

FWIW,
I have an original English sporting double that has had the hammers re-faced at least twice, and the soles are riveted on. Two towards the top and two at bottom corners. It was made about 1815.

[yulzari]

I imagine that it was that Mark who, unasked, kindly made me a new mainspring for my HEIC percussion musket that Bob now shoots. We shared a good opinion of the workmanship of the Jaipur Armoury.

[Pukka Bundook]

Yes, Mark made springs, a trial and error job, but he made a few good ones.
He liked a spare when shooting International or National, John.