Rasps Versus Planes

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Gentlemen,

I am building up my tool collection in anticipation for my first build this summer.  I have an old rasp that is two sided and has been used and abused for years.  I need soemthing better for a rifle build.  I have the opportunity to buy a new set of traditional files and rasps, or I can also get a microplane set. 

Which do you folks prefer? Any suggestions?

Coryjoe

[bjmac]

Although I'm relatively inexperienced, I find that I use my Nicholson 4-in-1 rasp alot, and I also use the microplanes for fast stock removal. So, for a real answer, I suggest both rasp and planes. On my current build, I'm also using a block plane for overall shaping of the forestock. Hope this helps, BJ

[keweenaw]

Throw that old rasp away and forget the microplanes.  Although expensive the most useful rasp you can get is a Nicholson #49 cabinet maker's rasp. I no longer find any use whatsoever for a 4-in-hand.  Their cutting surfaces are just too short to give even surfaces on the work and they leave marks that are almost impossible to remove.   Teh cabinet maker's rasp will remove huge amounts of wood with little effort and not leave impressed grooves that are hard to clean up.  I also make extensive use of a low angle block plane,  a 10" bastard cut half round file, and a couple mill files.  I particularly like the "hand" pattern files in a couple of cuts which I find useful for both wood and metal work - use the older ones for the metal (steel) and the new ones for brass or wood.

Tom

[JB2]

just a question about planes, do they tend to grab or chip out highly figured (curly) wood?   I don't have one that I use on gunstock wood, but was wondering if I should get one, or just get another recommended rasp. 

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Jim B, I have used planes on curly maple before.  Keep it sharp and keep it low and you should be fine. 

Coryjoe

[Cory Joe Stewart]

The Nicholson #49 is actually a cheaper option over the set.  Would it need to be followed with a smooth cut since the #49 is a second cut?

Coryjoe

[Jim Kibler]

There is no such thing as a smooth cut and second cut in a rasp.  The #49 and #50 denotes the too size for a Nicholson rasp.  One thing to consider.  With enough time and endurance you could shape a stock with say a #49 rasp, but to be efficient,  a much coarser rasp and a big gouge or planes and shaves will be better.  The cabinet makers rasp will be good to refine the already established rough shapes.

[rich pierce]

Get a good spokeshave and you'll find it will outlast and outperform all the rasps you could ever buy.  There are concave places where a nice rasp can do things the spokeshave can't do unless you have one with a rounded sole and are not afraid to go cross-grain with it.  Plus a spokeshave leaves great curls of hard wood that are unsurpassed for starting fires in the fireplace or the forge.

[Dennis Glazener]

forget the microplanes.

I agree 100% I have two, a round one and a flat one and rarely use either.

I also have a #49 & #50 Nicholson, I use the #49 way more than I do the #50 but I would recommend getting both if you can. I also have 2 spokeshaves one flat and one round, on plain wood I sometimes use them but much prefer a good small flat box plane.
Dennis

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

"I also have a #49 & #50 Nicholson, I use the #49 way more than I do the #50 but I would recommend getting both if you can. I also have 2 spokeshaves one flat and one round, on plain wood I sometimes use them but much prefer a good small flat box plane.
Dennis"

Me too and I have several small block planes of different sizes.... Sharp is the key.... Course the bandsaw is the real wood hog!!!   Then furnituire scrapers...

[longcruise]

I'm not near as experienced as most of the responders on this thread, but I'll throw out a vote for the Shurform tools. 

The stock I'm just getting to the end of now has seen;  Block plane, Shurform "plane", spokeshave, farriers rasp, Chain saw file(s), hacksaw, coping saw, chisels and gouges, an occasional piece of dowell wood wrapped with sandpaper, block sanders and an assorment of other files that were never intended for wood (most tool guys would cringe to see the way I abuse the intended usage of tools).

So, my vote is for all of the above and whatever works for the situation.

[Long Ears]

I use a micro plane to rough out the stock only because I do not have the set of Nicholson rasps YET. I also use a block plane that is razor sharp to shape the fore stock. It helps keep things flat and straight. The micro plane does bruise the wood so when you get close go to a mill file or block plane. #49 and #50 are next on my list but I've been spending all my tool money on gouges and chisels lately. Just go slow whatever you use and have fun. Good luck, Bob

[smshea]

I love my spokeshaves and planes for removing a lot of wood. I'm also a fan of the slightly used farrier's rasp(used because the guys out at the track give them away for free)if shaves and planes make you nervous. I have the #49 and #50 rasps, I use the #49 a lot more...Not sure why Another tool I use a lot that is rarely mentioned is the half round vulcanite file. They are great for sculpting and getting in tight places.

[coutios]

    I have to agree with smshea.. I've really taken to a couple of old wooden planes to remove wood quickly... Allot easier on the shoulder joints..

Regards
Dave

[whitebear]

Let me throw out another method that I have had good success with.  I use an angle grinder with a round 80 grit sanding disc on top of the grinding disc.  I use lay out lines to know when to stop,take it slow and remove a lot of wood in a hurry.
It leaves a nice smooth finish that can then be scraped or finish sanded.  One word of caution this method makes a LOT of dust so a respirator or dust mask and eye protection is a good idea. 

[rickw]

One tool nobody's mentioned is a cabinet file. It's a half-round file with a shallow profile. The ones I have are made by Nicholson.They make shaping curves easier than with a regular half-round file because of that shallower profile.They are cut like a coarse file, but give a smoother finish than a rasp.
I have two, an 8" and  10", and I use them a lot.
Rick W

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Hey Rick I have a 10" one of those and it gets a lot of use after the #49 especially on the wrist and butt stock areas.

[Rich]

Another tool that I find useful for heavy wood removal is a ferrier's rasp.

[rick landes]

I especially like the tapered file (360-313-841  31-384 HALF-ROUND VULCANITE FILE  $41.15 1 $41.15) from Brownell's.

[C. HUMMEL]

       Not trying to steal your thread,but since we are on this subject,just wondering what a good price would be
on a #49 & #50 Nicholson rasp?
                                                                                    Ernie

[Birdhunter]

I have 3 left @ $40 ea. plus shipping
Curt

[Birdhunter]

3 #50's

[keweenaw]

About $34.00 from Jamestown Distributors

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

about the same from tool barn where I bought one last month

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I take wood off my stocks with the bandsaw to square and within 1/16" of finish, or a little less.  Then the #49 Nicholson takes over.  I'll use a little block plane to get square to begin with, but I don't use planes after that.  I use a big draw knife on the butt stock to knock off the corners, again down to where it is only a little work with the rasp.  The forend just gets the rasp.  I have more faith in the rasp than the plane, which occasionally will lift out a chunk in a bad place, and below the finished plain.