Author Topic: Building an Alexander Henry Target Rifle from a Rod England Kit (Read 54885 times)

Curtis · « **Reply #150 on:** March 09, 2020, 07:49:56 PM »

Thanks guys!

Justin, I typically prefer to scrape wood as opposed to sanding, but some woods respond better to one or the other. I typically never sand raw wood more than 320 grit either. Walnut species can benefit from filling the grain, and one way to do that is to wet sand the stock using finish as the lubricant. This creates a pasty slurry that can fill the grain. The smoother you want the finish to be, finer grits are used. 600 grit is probably as fine as I would go however it boils down to a matter of choice and opinion.

As far as the sight goes, I will measure between the ears on my tang and get back to you with that info. Of course the space between the ears can be widened, or the sight bottom could be made narrower to fit. The stop notch on the sight bottom may need to be modified so that it stays in position perpendicular to the bore. When I post the photos of my sight spring and the sight bottom the previous statement will make more sense.

Curtis

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #151 on:** March 09, 2020, 10:15:42 PM »

Quote from: D. Taylor Sapergia on March 09, 2020, 07:44:16 PM

Once (last year) isn't always, Justin. But he really did shoot well.

Maybe I was talking to the wrong brother for advice about long range shooting. I don't think Daryl will let you forget that he beat you last year.

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #152 on:** March 09, 2020, 10:17:41 PM »

Thanks for measuring that for me Curtis. If my sight base is too narrow I could make washers for each side. Could you measure the mounting holes in the sight mount too? Thank you

Curtis · « **Reply #153 on:** March 10, 2020, 06:57:45 AM »

Justin, the holes in the sight mount ears came with small holes drilled in them for locating purposes, I never measured what they were originally. They were small enough to allow drilling and reaming them out to whatever size you need. The pivot screw that came with my sight has an 8x36 threaded end and a lightly larger body. Hope that helps.

The distance between the sight ears is around .213-.215, depending on how true I was holding the calipers.

You asked what the rifle weighs, I forgot to respond to that question earlier. I haven't weighed it yet but will try and remember to do that and post the results. I am certain it will fall under the 13 pound weight limit set for the international matches. I think there are a lot of Alex Henry match rifles shot at those matches. Perhaps Snapper can jump in here and shed some light on the subject when he sees this, he has shot (and won!) internationally.

Here are some photos of the bottom of my rear sight and the spring as seen from above the tang... It was originally flat on the bottom and I filed it to the shape shown. The Soule sight you have likely has a round bottom on it, that would work fine if the spring stop notch is in the proper location.

Curtis

Curtis · « **Reply #154 on:** March 10, 2020, 07:09:01 AM »

This is what I ended up with after applying a coat of Antique Oil finish with the stain added to it:

I think I will like it! Still deciding if I want to add another coat or not.

I forgot to mention I applied the finish whith all the furniture, lock etc. in place because in the past I have had finish build up enough in the mortices and inlets that I had to scrape the edges for several hours to get the parts to fit back in their respective places. I will apply a thing coat of sealer inside the mortices later to help protect against moisture absorption.

Curtis

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #155 on:** March 10, 2020, 11:54:54 PM »

Thanks for the pics Curtis. The stock looks great! So, my sight is .250 thick. It looks like there is plenty of steel on your tang to file it wide enough. The base looks like this. It may need some alteration.

hortonstn · « **Reply #156 on:** March 11, 2020, 12:48:56 AM »

Curtis

really like the rifle I think you are doing a very professional job looking forward to seeing your shooting updates

Curtis · « **Reply #157 on:** March 11, 2020, 06:42:47 AM »

Thanks Stan and Justin! Stan, I am looking forward to finally shoot this thing one of these days, hope it groups as good as I think it will.

Justin, there should be plenty of metal in the tang to allow for a .250 width. The detents on the sight bottom could still possibly work out okay, depending on how you designed the sight spring where it comes up between the tang ears.

Curtis

Bob Roller · « **Reply #158 on:** March 11, 2020, 03:12:44 PM »

When I made my long range rifle I made my own rear sight and made a stop spring that was slotted
and had a 4x48 screw that was tightened when it was at right angle to the bore.Muzzle loaders usually
have tang sights that fold forward and the breech loaders fold to the rear to allow for cleaning.I have
made both kinds and one miniature for a T/C belonging to a friend for his grandson.
I used the Lyman 17A with Lee Shaver's inserts for a front sight with a small level which is not traditional
on long range muzzle loaders but I liked it and used it with success at 500 meters.
Bob Roller

Curtis · « **Reply #159 on:** March 12, 2020, 06:53:31 AM »

Quote from: Bob Roller on March 11, 2020, 03:12:44 PM

When I made my long range rifle I made my own rear sight and made a stop spring that was slotted
and had a 4x48 screw that was tightened when it was at right angle to the bore...
Bob Roller

Bob, I am very interested in learning more about how that stop spring arrangement was made. It sounds like a great solution for adjusting the setup exactly. Could you share a sketch or a photo of the setup?

Thanks, Curtis

Bob Roller · « **Reply #160 on:** March 12, 2020, 04:51:24 PM »

Quote from: Curtis on March 12, 2020, 06:53:31 AM

Quote from: Bob Roller on March 11, 2020, 03:12:44 PM
When I made my long range rifle I made my own rear sight and made a stop spring that was slotted
and had a 4x48 screw that was tightened when it was at right angle to the bore...
Bob Roller

Bob, I am very interested in learning more about how that stop spring arrangement was made. It sounds like a great solution for adjusting the setup exactly. Could you share a sketch or a photo of the setup?

Thanks, Curtis

Curtis and whoever is interested,
It's the same as the one you have shown but the spring is slotted with a 7/64 end mill to
give clearance to a 4x48 screw.Set a little tension or "drag"that can be felt when rotating
the sight to the rear and then stop when it's at true 90 degrees to the bore.Remove the
sight and then the tang and tighten the 4x48 screw to capture the slotted spring.Recheck
after reassembling and it should be OK.
Bob Roller

snapper · « **Reply #161 on:** March 14, 2020, 05:18:59 PM »

I am back home and on line. Curtis, thank for posting those pictures for me.

The sling set up is so that the rifle is not being pulled from the bottom, causing me to have to fight it wanting to cant.

Curtis, I bet your rifle will check in just below 10 lbs. The original matches rifles were limited to 10 lbs. With Pedersoli coming out with their Gibbs years ago the rules were changed I believe to accommodate a heavier rifle.

Fleener

Daryl · « **Reply #162 on:** March 15, 2020, 01:59:19 PM »

Curtis, I expected a lovely rifle. Your rifle exceeds that by a long shot. Extremely nicely done and appointed. The finish is superb!

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #163 on:** March 20, 2020, 08:07:07 AM »

Hey Curtis.
Have you figured out what bullet you're going to try using in your rifle?
I'm starting to get my ducks in a row, to get parts from Rod, and I'm trying to figure out where to go as far as bullets for the barrel.

Curtis · « **Reply #164 on:** March 21, 2020, 07:05:48 AM »

Quote from: Justin Urbantas on March 20, 2020, 08:07:07 AM

Hey Curtis.
Have you figured out what bullet you're going to try using in your rifle?

I am starting with some 530 grain .442 diameter bullets pure lead bullets I ordered from Buffalo Arms, and I will be paper patching them. I also have a few each of .440, .441 and .443 bullets to try. Whichever diameter works best I will order a mold and cast some with maybe a 20:1 lead tin alloy and try those. https://www.buffaloarms.com/442-diameter-530-grain-swaged-paper-patch-pure-lead-cup-base-bullet-box-of-50-ppb442530

Curtis

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #165 on:** March 21, 2020, 06:04:37 PM »

Sounds good Curtis. I look forward to hearing how the range time goes.
It seems like everyone uses 85-100 gr Swiss 2f or 1.5f for their bullet rifles.
Unfortunately here in BC, we can only really find Goex, so I guess I will have to use it for a while, and I might need to stock up on Swiss when I get back across the border some day.

Marcruger · « **Reply #166 on:** March 21, 2020, 07:11:49 PM »

Not meaning to omit the other work you've done on this rifle, but that wood finish is STUNNING. God Bless, Marc

Daryl · « **Reply #167 on:** March 21, 2020, 09:03:15 PM »

I'm thinking a 30:1 or 40:1 mix. will work better, Curtis, and likely with a .0025" thick paper. The the thicker paper might not be as
picky as to exact bullet diameter as an onion skin paper. Just thinking out loud, kinda.

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #168 on:** April 17, 2020, 08:21:34 PM »

Hey Curtis. When you get a chance I was wondering if you could tell me the overall length of your stock so I can find an appropriate length piece of wood. Thanks

T*O*F · « **Reply #169 on:** April 17, 2020, 10:25:47 PM »

Quote

I am starting with some 530 grain .442 diameter bullets pure lead bullets I ordered from Buffalo Arms, and I will be paper patching them.

Curtis,
Rod's barrels are a true .451 like the originals, as opposed to Badger and some others which are .450. Once wrapped, your bullets should mike out at .450.

snapper · « **Reply #170 on:** April 18, 2020, 12:21:32 AM »

I size mine to .443 and I use a one in 20 mix for tin. My bullets are longer then most and the harder bullets keep the nose from slumping, or at least that is the assumption..

Fleener

Daryl · « **Reply #171 on:** April 18, 2020, 01:34:22 AM »

According to New Roberts, some used soft bases and hard noses in the ML's for shooting 40 rods.

Curtis · « **Reply #172 on:** April 18, 2020, 06:40:14 AM »

Quote from: Justin Urbantas on April 17, 2020, 08:21:34 PM

Hey Curtis. When you get a chance I was wondering if you could tell me the overall length of your stock so I can find an appropriate length piece of wood. Thanks

I'll try to remember and measure it tomorrow and post the length.

Curtis

Curtis · « **Reply #173 on:** April 18, 2020, 06:49:07 AM »

Quote from: T*O*F on April 17, 2020, 10:25:47 PM

Curtis,
Rod's barrels are a true .451 like the originals, as opposed to Badger and some others which are .450. Once wrapped, your bullets should mike out at .450.

Quote from: snapper on April 18, 2020, 12:21:32 AM

I size mine to .443 and I use a one in 20 mix for tin. My bullets are longer then most and the harder bullets keep the nose from slumping, or at least that is the assumption..

Fleener

Dave and Fleener - Thanks for the info. I ordered the .442's since BACO doesn't sell cast .443 PP bullets. Also they sell only pure lead in the cast PP bullets. Equipped with your info I guess I should just go ahead and order a .443 mold - I wasn't certain a wrapped .443 bullet would fit in a fouled and wiped barrel. Regardless I will mike a wrapped .442 and see what it measures tomorrow. Thanks for the info!

Curtis

snapper · « **Reply #174 on:** April 18, 2020, 03:03:57 PM »

Curtis

I can send you some sized bullets to give it a go for fit, just let me know.

I wrap my bullets with dry paper, no lube no water. Then I size them. The sizing helps the paper I think stay with the bullet a little bit.

My procedure for loading is a damp patch then a dry patch after each shot, AFTER I drop powder and before the wad and bullet.

The bullet should slide down the barrel with little effort.

During matches I have had to wet my patches more then normal to get a good clean barrel. It is not good when you push through the paper patch with your bullet. If that happens you just have to shoot it into the berm.

Fleener

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Author Topic: Building an Alexander Henry Target Rifle from a Rod England Kit (Read 54885 times)