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Items for Sale/Wanted / Re: For Sale Rifle Stock Builders 4
« Last post by Mule Brain on Today at 11:09:10 AM »
The barrel channel hasn’t been inletted
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Gun Building / Re: Making Lock Waxes — Tinker or Leave it Alone!?
« Last post by silky on Today at 05:37:41 AM »
A bigger update tonight — I got a lot done the past few days.

The lock I’m working off is almost 300 years old and in some places it needs improvement for the final castings to be useable and look good. So I went into this anticipating that some initial castings would need to be reworked then molded again. That’s may not be super efficient but at my experience level what I felt best about. So those pieces were initially cast in Freeman’s purple wax, which is formulated for rework as it is carve-able and does okay with filing/sanding. Here are two examples of re-work…

This musket saw some action (what I wouldn’t give to know when and where!). And it shows. The pan has been eaten away such that it needed to be rebuilt. I started by molding the lock plate as is, then went to town building up the pan area into a massive blob of wax. Using files, knives, and a gouge, I carved out a new one. I’m trying to strike a balance of not leaving lots of metal work on the final steel casting, but also not getting myself into trouble by getting too cute with wax re-work. The new pan is kinda small so I left the frizzen a little beefy so most fitting can be done by filing the frizzen.

Original pan


Reworked pan


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The frizzen spring on the original lock is a bit warped and contorted, but I really like the finial. So, I stuck that finial and screw bolster portion in an open space in another mold by suspending it from above the mold box such that only that part was in the mold (not by design but because the idea struck me right after pouring the silicone for other parts!).  I dug through the parts box and found a 1728 Brown Bess spring is very close in all dimensions, but both leaves are longer than this musket lock’s spring. I molded and cast it in some 30-minute silicone then went to work with a knife, file, and wax pen to first shorten the leaves then “weld” the finial to the spring. I’m really happy with how it turned out, especially because I didn’t try to improve the shape but rather kept the original look of hand workmanship (the screw bolster isn’t perfectly symmetrical or in line with the lower spring leaf).

Original spring (top) and TRS Bess spring (bottom)

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The cast finial from the original

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Time to mash ‘em together!

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The original with one that will go to the foundry. I hope Mr. Barbar is pleased!

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I did something similar with the mainspring. The frizzen face was concave from many firings so I “re-soled” it with wax build up then filed it flat. Lots of other stuff, too. It had been a lot of work and tedious at times, but it’s very rewarding to see the final wax come out looking good and knowing it will be part of a functioning lock soon.

With four of the final molds made, I started production tonight. This Freeman Ruby Red wax flows so nicely and fills the mold better than the purple. But it’s way too brittle to be reworked, so the purple has its niche. It sure is nice to sit back and fill molds and see the work in its final state. I almost wish I still drink because a cold beer and shooting final waxes would be a nice evening.

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No beer but this guy brought me something (he thought was) better while I was opening a top jaw mold!

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Next up is more final mold pouring and casting. The purple lock plate has gotten a little thinner than I’d like… any recommendations on how to beef it up? I think I have seen very thin sheet wax that can be applied in layers but haven’t found it… anyone know what is called or have better ideas?

Have a good night!

- Tom

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What a great horn ! Thank You !!
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Gun Building / Re: Shop is humming with British guns
« Last post by Daryl on Today at 04:48:04 AM »
Stunning already.
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Gun Building / Re: Making Lock Waxes — Tinker or Leave it Alone!?
« Last post by silky on Today at 04:29:52 AM »
Most lock experts will sat that parts cast from originals are too small because of shrinkage. As gunsmiths were born into the late flintlock period things like trigger guards and butts got smaller and thinner . That was from using old pieces for patterns and then using the new pieces for patterns. I have used old pieces for patterns, but prep the patterns by dipping them in poly U to build them up a few layers. That build-up gives you room to file and polish each piece and still arrive at the original dimension.  CSW

Polyurethane dip… what a great method! I’ll remember that for future builds. Thanks!
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Items for Sale/Wanted / JS Hawken Contemporary Pistol .54
« Last post by 1sogdusm on Today at 03:54:16 AM »
Produced many years ago by P. Bondini in Italy. J.S. Hawken marked lock, silver mounted, captured ramrod, would make a nice companion to a .54 rifle.   There is freckling on the silver mountings but pistol does not appear to have been fired. Bore and wood is in excellent condition. $800 shipped and insured where legal to do so.











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Gun Building / Re: Lockmaker ID?
« Last post by Mattox Forge on Today at 03:12:14 AM »
Thanks. I don’t suppose he's still making then?
Mike
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Items for Sale/Wanted / Re: Model 1805 Harpers Ferry Pistol - $9,500
« Last post by fundukj on Today at 02:56:10 AM »
Not much left on the barrel, except for what looks like half of the letter "P."
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Gun Building / Re: Lockmaker ID?
« Last post by 2 shots on Today at 02:54:03 AM »
 yes to Larry Zorn   m/g =mold and gun shop
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Gun Building / Re: Building a Schuetzen Rifle
« Last post by penobscot on Today at 02:48:00 AM »
thank you for your video's i look forward every Saturday
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