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Contemporary Accoutrements / Re: Hunting bag build

« Last post by hawkeye on Today at 10:34:35 AM »

Thank you polecat-tom, appreciate it
Like your beadwork too

Gun Building / Re: New work

« Last post by Rolf on Today at 09:32:30 AM »

Truly beautiful!! Can't wait to see the finish rifle.

Best regards
Rolf

Gun Building / Re: Pewter vs Tin

« Last post by Dphariss on Today at 08:08:08 AM »

Quote from: Hungry Horse on April 18, 2024, 04:41:23 AM

I use lead free pewter from the second hand store. I don’t think you’re going to get material any cheaper anywhere. This stuff is either engraved with somebodies name, or has a big dent in it, but that doesn’t matter for melting down to pour nosecaps or mold lead free shot.

Hungry Horse

This also works well.

Gun Building / Re: Pewter vs Tin

« Last post by Dphariss on Today at 08:07:21 AM »

There are many different Pewter alloys. Some contain lead. The best Pewter tip material I have ever used is “Silva-Brite 100” solder. Its actually one of the old non-toxic pewter mixes. Did a lot of Pewter tips when I was the custom shop for a brass suppository rifle maker. Did not have to worry about bring lead dust home to the kids.

Gun Building / Re: Rust bluing question

« Last post by Dphariss on Today at 08:01:10 AM »

Quote from: NJS on April 18, 2024, 12:40:16 AM

Good afternoon,
I put together a Kibler SMR a couple of years ago and I rust blued all of the furniture with Pilkingtons. I didn't do a great job fitting the rear sight so, I have to refit another sight. My problem is, from what I understand, Pilkingtons is no longer being made. Is there another product that any of you recommend? I read or heard somewhere that you can use aqua fortis. I have some leftover that I bought from the Kiblers when I bought the kit I could use if that's an option? Thanks for all of your help!

In Montana Pilkingtons was a waste of time would stop rusting at about the third coat on the chrom-moly barrels I was using at the time. Any cold brown will work. I used to mox Wahkon Bay brown and “Aqua Fortis” stain 50-50 and it worked well. But started making my own anyway. Rust boil/card off repeat. And yes IMO a little Nitric acid in the solution seems to work well. Using Aqua Fortis depends on how acid the stain is. Ferric Nitrate need not be acidic to stain a stock…

Black Powder Shooting / Standard(?) loads for smaller calibers?

« Last post by Kurt on Today at 07:57:36 AM »

I have read various posts here saying that around 20 grains are what is used with the 32 calibers, enough so that my impression is that 20 grains could be said to be around "standard" ignoring outliers. Would the experienced offer what might be the "standard" for the 36 caliber and 40 caliber? I trying to plan for another rifle. Thanks, Kurt.

Gun Building / Re: Hawken-esque Plains Rifle Build

« Last post by Curtis on Today at 07:44:29 AM »

Thanks Ian and Bob! I am a simple kinda guy.

Ian, I am waiting to see if I need to run my rifle through the truck wash, lol!

I add internal parts to the lock, paint then with inlet black and then do some more excavating until it all fits and the lock cycles all the way through without interference. When I installed the bridle I had to do a bit of filing to make the top flush with the lockplate.

When it's all done I take all the parts back off the lock plate and then draw file the lock panels flush (they were too high still) and in the process put a file finish on the lock plate.

After that I start with the set trigger plate... I heated the plate with a torch and did a little bending until I was happy with the shape, then locate the plate and scribe around the edges of the "bulge":