Author Topic: Bucks County (Read 15305 times)

yip · « **Reply #75 on:** August 31, 2018, 07:45:48 PM »

lucky RA please post web sites for these guys. i've been searching all morning with no help

Jason C · « **Reply #76 on:** August 31, 2018, 08:00:19 PM »

Quote from: yip on August 31, 2018, 07:45:48 PM

lucky RA please post web sites for these guys. i've been searching all morning with no help

http://knobmountainmuzzleloading.com/castings.html
scroll down about half way.

Contact info is at the bottom of the home page:
http://knobmountainmuzzleloading.com/index.html

rmcgowan · « **Reply #77 on:** August 31, 2018, 08:01:53 PM »

Dave Keck Knob Mountain Muzzleloading page two of castings has the bucks castings

Bob

flinchrocket · « **Reply #78 on:** August 31, 2018, 09:03:36 PM »

Fred, the easiest way to Lucky RA's website is to just click on the earth icon on the left side of his post, that will take you straight to his website.

flehto · « **Reply #79 on:** August 31, 2018, 10:43:19 PM »

Thanks to all for the info on Bucks County TGs and Bplates at Knob Mountain. Ron....thanks for sharing the info on the BC castings at Knob Mountain and your LRs shown on your website are just beautiful as well as educational. .....Fred

yip · « **Reply #80 on:** August 31, 2018, 11:40:46 PM »

THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!!!!

flehto · « **Reply #81 on:** September 01, 2018, 03:36:30 AM »

I noticed that the Shuler Bplate on the Knob Mountain website is only 4-1/2" high. Would this be for a small bore LR that Shuler built? The BC Bplate I use is 5-1/8" high and have used it for both "B" and "C" weight swamped bbls and it suited both.

The Shuler BC TG at Knob Mountain is a dandy and I wish I had known about it sooner. ...although the modified #47 BC TG from Fred Miller was quite suitable.

Anyways....I'm glad that some BC items are available.....Fred

yip · « **Reply #82 on:** September 01, 2018, 01:58:22 PM »

Fred; T.O.T.W page 262 has a butt plate, A Verner style b/p, looks to be long enough

flehto · « **Reply #83 on:** September 01, 2018, 02:43:58 PM »

I take it that the Verner has a corner in lieu of a radius at the heel? ....Fred

yip · « **Reply #84 on:** September 01, 2018, 03:15:57 PM »

thanks Fred; guess i'll keep look'n

JTR · « **Reply #85 on:** September 02, 2018, 01:10:33 AM »

For comparison to the measurements above, an attributed George Weiker rifle, original flint, original length barrel at 45 1/2" long and 47 cal smoothbore. The breech is 1.070". The waist of the swamp is 8" back from the muzzle and measures .755". And at the muzzle is .810".
The butt plate is 4 3/8" top to bottom.
John

yip · « **Reply #86 on:** September 02, 2018, 01:20:42 AM »

thanks gents; these are measurements i'll write down, i'll have to think about that butt plate. this subject is great input keep up the response. ......yip

Lucky R A · « **Reply #87 on:** September 02, 2018, 03:40:38 AM »

I was at the Jefferson Co Arms and Artifact show today, and one of the KRA former presidents showed a number of us a recently acquired unsigned Bucks Co. gun. The gun was an absolute beauty with all the bells and whistles. The gun is untouched. It could well be the work of John Shuler. I checked the butt plate length and it was a smidge under 4-1/2" so that stacks up well with the 4-3/8 length reported above. As Spinner related the Rice Shuler barrel is on the heavy side. I used one at the request of the client, but would stick to a B weight 50, unless something other was requested. The commercial patchboxs are much too large and must be cut down. Additionally the originals had much smaller diameter barrels in the hinge than the commercial boxes...just some things to consider. Ron

yip · « **Reply #88 on:** September 02, 2018, 04:28:11 PM »

thanks lucky: the information here by some are great, lets keep this up

flehto · « **Reply #89 on:** September 02, 2018, 06:29:41 PM »

This pertains to those whom I've sent a tracing of my Shuler template. Seeing suitable BC TGs and Bplates aren't available from most sources, I would buy the Shuler parts from Knob Mountain if the build is from a blank. I should have used these TGs and Bplates but when I started building BC LRs in 1978 not much was available.

The Shuler template tracing underline contour should be altered to accommodate the less high Knob Mountain Bplate starting somewhere at the rear finial of the Knob Mountain TG. You'll have to see what contour blends in the best. The top contour stays the same and the bbl used has a 1" breech which fits in well.

If'n it was me, the first thing I would do is buy the Shuler castings from Knob Mountain....it's really the easy way to make a correct BC Shuler LR.

Thanks to Eric , John and Ron for the accurate info they supplied for building historically correct BC LRs......Fred

yip · « **Reply #90 on:** September 02, 2018, 09:09:32 PM »

well Fred i'll be buying one of em and try my hand,but the way things is going looks like November when i get started, till then just keep studing and listening to you guys." lets go bucks" (its a Pittsburgh thing)..........yip

yip · « **Reply #91 on:** September 03, 2018, 06:15:25 PM »

planning on my nose cap, were they two piece or one piece?

flehto · « **Reply #92 on:** September 03, 2018, 07:25:22 PM »

I think Spinner should answer that. I've got pics of open ended Mcaps but I don't use them...my Mcaps are oval and close ended. The top pic is of an original and is open ended. The bottom pic is off one of mine.....don't know if this type was used....Fred

yip · « **Reply #93 on:** September 04, 2018, 04:34:56 PM »

Fred; i hope Spinner replies, i got the dvd by KRA and does'nt show any fore stocks, i've been searching the web with no help. are they oval all the way to the end or is this something not to worry about?

rich pierce · « **Reply #94 on:** September 04, 2018, 05:02:59 PM »

Great summary of a very distinctive and beautiful style

yip · « **Reply #95 on:** September 04, 2018, 05:29:21 PM »

Spinner; thanks for your reply i'll take all as gospel, i appreciate it, thanks

flehto · « **Reply #96 on:** September 04, 2018, 05:49:15 PM »

Thanks Eric. The entry pipe w/ its long finial is sometimes a deterrent in building a BC LR. Below are some pics of how I make them.

Inletting is fairly difficult .....but if you spread the "wings" open and when the "top" of the pipe is to depth, then little by little the "wings" or sides of the pipe are pushed in and inletted until the sides are to depth. I use one pin through the pipe lug and a very small screw for each "wing". This allows the pipe to be removed.

A drill, the same dia as the OD of the pipe is clamped in the form block and the end of the finial is peened and formed to match the pipe. A few anneals are req'd to prevent cracking. The finial and pipe are then hi temp silver soldered together. A snuggly fitting drill is inserted into the pipe bbl and acts as a heat sink while silver soldering the 2 pieces together.

The form will also make a one piece BC entry pipe and after the pipe portion is formed and the lugs are silver soldered together, is clamped in the hole and the "forend" form block is used. A steel punch w/ a radiused tip is used to peen the transition radius and then the rest of the finial is filed to suit . Needless to say, the brass has to be periodically annealed to prevent cracking. I think the 2 piece is easier to make.

When closing the lugs of the pipe , I use hi temp silver solder and lay a 1/16 dia length of silver solder in the radiused groove of the lugs in the ID ....the silver solder fills in the groove and enables a much shorter length of finished lug as shown.

This BC entry pipe no doubt can be made w/ a steel mandrel, but the form blocks shown have done quite a few BC entry pipes. How others do it would be interesting.....Fred

yip · « **Reply #97 on:** September 04, 2018, 06:26:47 PM »

trying to experiment on the entry pipe, i'll try to post pic of the one i'm trying and hope you will agree its worth a shot

flehto · « **Reply #98 on:** September 04, 2018, 07:43:36 PM »

Hi Eric....I don't think you did it the "hard way"...whatever works is the way to go. Your BC entry pipes are beautiful. I don't think that despite the interest shown here asre BC LRs, this style will be a popular build because of the entry pipe.

The other day I was thinking of how my BC LRs would have been more correct if sources such as you were known to me and BC TGs and Bplates were available such as the ones from Knob Mountain.

I used the TG from Goehring but there was a lot of confusion dealing w/ him because he didn't have a catalog. I bought the Verner TG from him and spent a few hrs changing it to a Shuler and used a bplate from Hedgecock that was advertised as "Bucks County" but was too long.

Although my BC LRs sold well and do look like BC LRS, there's a nagging barb in my head that things could have been better if I hadn't started to build BCs so early when info was scarce and true BC components were even scarcer. I was a decent builder but a lousy researcher.

But that's retrogressing and seeing I'm barely getting the latest and last BC done, I don't have any regrets it's been an interesting "ride". .....Fred

flehto · « **Reply #99 on:** September 04, 2018, 09:19:45 PM »

Eric....thanks for the kind words. For some of the new BC builders, doing as you did w/ buying an enrtry pipe and then making the finial might be a good start for them. Yours looks quite good.

I found by making the BC entry pipe from 2 pieces was a lot easier than one piece. So your idea of 2 pcs took hold.....

In the post w/ 2 pics , did the 2 form blocks actually form the pipe? Didn't think that wooden form bloclks would endure the strain ....a lot of detail to sharpen up. .....Fred

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Author Topic: Bucks County (Read 15305 times)